12 dicembre, 2009

It just gets better!

So…… now, marching their way off to port are 4 waterspouts that have dropped out of the thunderstorm off of Capri.
Just incredible…………

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12 dicembre, 2009

Malta to Roma- well nearly!

After leaving Portomaso at 0600hrs yesterday in well, quite frankly horrid seas and a fresh wind, Magellano did her best to cope with what nature was flinging at her. It reallyn was pants. 50 miles of rolling and pitching. But we take heart that in any other boat we would have turned back or more as likley not gone at all.
once we picked up the lee of sicilly it was a lot more comfortable and the Straits of Messina proved to be a 16 knot blast, playing chicken with ferries and other commerce.
A fantastic backdrop as the sun when down, my first navigation of the messina straits, and my first view of Etna- but not my last volcano for the day……
as we came out of the straits, i rustled up some “Pasta alla Magellano” just prior to the wind kicking up a notch again. This time from the NNW the seas were short and steep and an unpleasant few hours were in prospect. HOWEVER…….!
The second volcano in one day came into sight- Stromboli- the lighthouse of the Med. Awesomeis all I can say about that. But again, it wasn’t to be the last volcano…..
All through the night we had the legendary big sky which was full of shooting stars, so bright and vivid that you thought that you should hear them…… off to our port and to our stern a thunder storm was raging, no noise just super bright flashes of lightning.
As we headed in shore to pick up the lee, it gave us time to appreciate this wonderful spectacle.
my watch fininshed at 0400 and I turned in for an hours sleep (ha!) I was using the forward cabin which is normally habited by Jess, but as she was on watch, the thought of that huge bed was to great to resist!
Unfortunately it was like being in a washing machine with no water on spin cycle whist sitting on a trampoline, i was in bed one second, then bouncing off the deckhead the next, it was so funny and I was so tired that I could do nothing about it except laugh myself to sleep!
I awoke to my third volcano, Vesuvius, and a very strange metomorphasis took place- I turned into Dean Martin, this seems to happen whenever I approach Napoli…….
“I’m praying for rain in california, so the grapes can grow and they can make more wine….”
Anyhoo…anohter fantastic sight, maybe 50-100miloes away is a massive “thunderhead” producing lightning…..with Capri in the foreground……Hell this is rubbish……..

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11 dicembre, 2009

Fiona Walker’s feedback on Magellano 74 – Sidi Bou Said – Tunisia

We didn’t expect to be doing any more boating this year, but here we are, just a couple of weeks before Christmas, heading back on board for what promises to be an exciting experience! The new Azimut Magellano is in Sidi Bou Said, a small port in Tunisia, and so are we.

Moored at the end of the pontoon, she dominates the marina and draws attention from all around. The bronze hull stands out from all the white boats surrounding her, and she towers above the others moored here. It hasn’t been an easy crossing, we are told by the crew. The weather was unfavourable, and of course there have been a number of teething problems. But here she is, and we can’t wait to get on board.

Frank & Fiona Walker_Magellano Voyage_01

It is hard not to be impressed by the spacious, light and airy saloon. The large windows mean that the Azimut feels at one with her surroundings, and the Missoni furnishings bring a touch of colour and fun to the interior. We are eager to explore and delve below to inspect the cabins, feeling a touch of envy for those who have already enjoyed these facilities. The light from the saloon percolates down the stairwell into the corridor, enhancing that feeling of spaciousness. The owner’s cabin is huge and looks comfortable, with plenty of room for Dag Pike to work on his book when he is not on duty at the helm. And when he’s finished, there’s even bookcases by the headboard where he can stow his new novel! There’s a distinct feeling of small, chic boutique hotel here, and it’s very appealing.

The other two cabins are equally well appointed, with interesting touches like the under-bed storage – the mattresses lift with easy to reveal a large space which easily accommodates all those items you want to keep out of sight. I’m impressed! And the en suite facilities are everything you would hope for and expect on a boat of this calibre.

After a good look around, it’s back up to the saloon – which is by now filling with people. I count heads and realise that there are twenty people on board, but it doesn’t feel the slightest bit crowded. Canapes are being prepared in the galley, which is situated just inside the cockpit door and there is a real party atmosphere.

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11 dicembre, 2009

In Sidi Bou Said with the special testers of the Magellano 74, Vittorio Missoni, Harald Frentzen, Frank and Fiona Walker

The forecast storm is at its maximum with winds of force 8 or more here in Sidi Bin Said. Waves are breaking over the marina breakwater and there is a lot of movement inside the marina itself. We did not have the most comfortable night with water slamming under the chines and to add to the problems our one remaining generator is playing up. Alex has had his head inside it and now looks to have solved the fuel supply problems.

Now we have to move to another berth to refuel and that should be an interesting operation with the strong winds. We have not had a chance to test the thrusters in a strong beam wind so I am hoping that we will be able to hold Magellano off the berth as we come alongside. I probably should not have reservations but we will not know until we try it

Well it worked and we transfer to the fuel dock went exactly as planned even though we weree hit by a couple of strong gusts on wind. Then the fun started with fuel being delivered in small trucks with a tank fitted to the back.

Magellano 74 Tunisia_Magellano Voyage_30

Each tank held 1000 litres and they had to return to the depot to fill up to give us our required 5000 litres. What I could not understand was why we could not get fuel out of the pumps on the quayside, something to do with the payments.

So fuelling was a long process but eventually we have enough to keep us going. Up till now refuelling has been quick and easy but 3 hours later we are topped up with much shouting and gesticulation. Then it was back to our berth to await the arrival of guests.

From Sidi Bou Said we went had the celebs join us, Heinz Harold Frezen the ex F1 driver and Vittorio Missoni the fashion guru.

harald frentzen-magellano voyage-07

It was a pleasure to welcome such guests aboard and wee set off on a day trip round Cape Farina to the wonderful island rock that is Isla Pilau. This rock rises almost vertically from the sea to 114 metres and it provided a wonderful backdrop against which to photograph Magellano.

Magellano 74 Tunisia_Magellano Voyage_33

We put the tender down and were busy with the photos when a Tunisian warship took a close interest in what we were doing. We managed to convince them that we were harmless and just going about our business but in the uncaring way of navies around the world they went past creating a considerable wash just when we were recovering the tender, which made things difficult.

After the photos we went back around the cape to anchor for lunch in the calm waters and brilliant sunshine. It was sublime and a picture of what cruising should be about. After all the bad weather we have been experiencing it was great to be able to relax and enjoy things. At dinner in the evening Heinz-Harold and I were swapping stories about disasters and crashes, his in a car and mine in boats and ships. The big difference we decided was that in cars everything happens extremely quickly, in a slip second in the case of a racing car whilst in ships and boats they are slow motion accidents. In both cases you think you have choices but in reality events seems to take charge. We decided that we are both survivors but how much can you put down to luck and how much to judgements and quick thinking. I try not to rely on luck when I go to sea so I guessed it must be quick thinking but you are never sure.

 

It was much the same the next day but this time we went out to the opposite shore where on the west side of Cape Bon. This is a wild and romantic coast with the only habitation we could see being a hermit’s cottage, or at least that is what we were told. It was blissful at sea but the charts were a bit vague about where the shallows are so I hade to navigate with considerabl4e caution. Out here Vittorio Missoni tried his hand at fishing, a sport that is a great passion for him. This time his luck was out so we returned empty handed.

vittorio missoni-magellano voyage-11

In the past Vittorio and I have raced against each other in offshore powerboat racing and we are both members of the most exclusive yacht club in the world, the South West Shingles Yacht Club. You do not join this club you get elected and the qualification is that you must have had a very high profile accident or incident that you would like to hide but which has been made very public. This is a very British Institution but we have a world wide membership. There were many stories to tell over dinner.

vittorio missoni-magellano voyage-24

The weather looks fair for our voyage to Malta tomorrow but once again we have quite a narrow weather window with the next storm brewing in the Western Mediterranean. I love this negotiating with the weather and it is ones of those skills that every yachtsman should embrace because it can open up opportunities to go to sea that might not otherwise be available.

Before we headed off to Malta we had a morning out with Frank and Fiona Walker who are passionate yachtsman and who have their own Azimut 62 in the Mediterranean. At the helm of Magellano Frank was like a kid with a new toy and revelled in the unexpected performance of Magellano.

Frank & Fiona Walker_Magellano Voyage_04

The yactht may have something of a staid image but she can certainly get up and go you open the throttles and she can turn on a sixpence. I must say I have fallen in love with her performance but this run to Malta is going to put her to the test.

The forecast is for force 5 from the WNW, so Magellano will have a following sea all the way to Malta except for the first 30 or so miles to Cap Bon. Here the sea was on the quarter so that Magellano running at 12 knots had a sort of corkscrew ride. Altering course just 10 degrees improved thilling in the beauty and the pleasure.nd the cape and have the seas behind us. Now Magellano picked up her skirts and flew. We were still maintaining the revs for 12 knots but the speed over the ground was up to 13 knots or more with the wind astern.

The ride was so comfortable on board with just a gentle roll that the stabilisers corrected quickly, that the Italians on board cooked up a wonderful pan of pasta and we could sit round the table with civilised eating. Eating pasta at a dining table in a force 5 is a new experience for me and clearly demonstrated the easy riding capabilities of Magellano.

At midnight the skies cleared and there was a wonderful display of stars. It is what seamen call a ‘big sky’ one where you can sea the stars right down to the horizon. This is another part of the magic of going to sea and we were revelling in the beauty and the pleasure.

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11 dicembre, 2009

Malta- I love you!!

After a fairly bumpy few hours during the night we arrived in Malta, my first visit for 25 years- a lot has changed!
I love this place and Grand Harbour Valletta is as evocative today as it must have been 100 years ago.
For the last few years I have been reading everything I can on the naval conflicts of the last war, and one thing has always stood out in every book, whether written by a German author, Italian author or British, and that was the bravery of the Maltese people during this period. Over 3000 air raids and 15000 tons of bombs were dropped, but still these wonderful people stood fast. The siege of Malta was eventually broken when one of the largest ever formed convoys was formed and fought through in 1942.
The turning point was the arrival of the tanker Ohio, after taking 4 torpedoes and a number of bombs, with her back broken she sailed in to Grand Harbour lashed to two corvettes to keep her afloat. She was welcomed by the entire Island, and the harbour walls and fortifications were lined with people waving flags and cheering.
Our arrival was not as spectacular, important or anywhere like as noteworthy as the Ohio’s, but the welcome none the less was brilliant. We have been looked after so well, the shore crew, agents and locals alike have made us all want to return for a proper holiday.

Thank you Portomaso, thank you Malta……. You are wonderful.
Alex

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